Sunshine Coast to Sydney bike tour, day 10 to 12: Byron Bay to Angourie

7 June 2016: beach camp to Byron Bay
I awoke to see quite clearly just how close the large wave runup had got to my tent at high tide. They had overtopped the sand cliff and got within just a few metres of my tent which stood on a small pocket of dry sand.
Runup camp
The tide was lowish and I had to bike just 3 km along the beach to get to Brighton. On the way were just a few of these impressive shells, this one was occupied.

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At Brighton there actually were people, out walking their dogs on the beach. I left the beach here via an access path, and biked back to the Pacific Highway and then off left to Byron Bay. The surf was still amazing and I could see why Byron draws the tourists with the huge bay and coast backed by bush-clad mountains.

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Out there somewhere was my camp the previous night. I booked into a cheap motel here and did laundry, and had evening beer and curry.

View south from Byron Lighthouse
View south from Byron Lighthouse

8 June: Byron Bay to Broadwater coast camp
I headed south out of Byron Bay up the coast 35 km to Ballina where I caught a ferry to get to South Balina.

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On the ferry, the captain said “Where ya heading?”. “Umm” I hesitated “Melbourne!” “Melbourne?!” he responded. He then suggested “There’s a bladdy plane dan the road, it’ll get ya ta Melbourne in two ahhs”. Then another guys said “You need some money for a bus ticket?”.
Things were more peaceful heading south along the left bank of Richmond River which lead into Broadwater National Park.

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I headed back down to the coast and found a great place to camp.

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The beach had been so badly eroded by the storm that it was quite difficult to get down to the beach and rocks. I’m not sure but I think the rocks in the tent picture below (9 June morning) would have been mostly covered in sand prior to the storm. There were a lot of coastal shrub birds here enjoying the evening insects.

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It was a sparklingly clear night, I took a milky way time-lapse although unfortunately nothing in the foreground.

9 June Broadwater coast camp to Angourie mosquito camp

Camp at Broadwater
Sunrise at Broadwater

Riding the beach from my camp to Evans Head might have been doable but there were a lot of exposed rocks and so I decided against it. Instead I headed inland and then south To Evans Head to stock up on food. I really wanted to go through Bunjalung National Park and Google Maps cycling directions suggested that there was a way through the park to eventually get to Woody Head. Sadly this turned out to be a military area (another Google directions failure, one of many) and there was no legal way though. With no choice I headed 10 km inland to Woodburn and then followed the Pacific Highway south. This was a frustrating development however it did mean fast progress south for once. In fact I quickly knocked off 45 km on the highway, there was a shoulder and the route was mostly through bush but the trucks and cars ruined the vibe. A python had paid the price for perhaps a morning sunbathe on the road. Past Chatsworth I’d had enough of the dam highway and eyed a route along the coast from Yamba, looked like a walking path south from Angourie but I hoped I could ride it. It was another 20 km to Angourie from the highway. Past Yamba this road goes through some great palm wetlands. I found the walking track at the end of the road where surfers were packing up after their days surf.
It didn’t look cyclable, immediately beginning with stairs so I turned around and looked for a camp in the fading light. The place I ended up was in some mosquito infested forest. I didn’t like it but beggars can’t be choosers.
The route for these 3 days (also including the day before) is here:
http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/fullscreen/1168086550/

map

One thought on “Sunshine Coast to Sydney bike tour, day 10 to 12: Byron Bay to Angourie”

  1. Great blog Chris. I’ll be following with much interest. My partner and I frequently cycle around the Sunshine Coast to Brisbane region, and we’re planning a bike trip from Brisbane to Ballina – maybe further- next year. It’s good to know there’s a ferry there at Ballina.
    Cheers
    Michael

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